| Soil, Fertilizer, Mulch & Compost - August 2008
Please Note: All recommendations are for central Maryland. Time frames shift two weeks earlier in Southern Maryland and the Eastern Shore and two weeks later for Western Maryland. Check publications for further information.
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Soil
Bare soil is prone to erosion and should be covered with mulch, groundcovers or turf. Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil.
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Fertilizer
Do not fertilize shade trees, fruit trees or shrubs at this time. It would promote new growth at a time when perennial plants are beginning to enter dormancy and could result in winter damage. Trees are typically fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall, not in the spring. Mature shade trees do not need to be fertilized every year. Bluegrass and fescue turf is also fertilized in the fall.
Avoid the temptation to fertilize ornamental garden plants that appear to be healthy and productive. Over-fertilization, especially with fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, can lead to overly succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids.
Gently shake or brush granular fertilizers off of foliage to prevent leaf burn. It’s also a good idea to wash off foliar fertilizers with water after fertilizing, to avoid leaf burn.
Help protect the Bay by using fertilizers wisely. Fertilizers and lime should be applied in accordance with soil test recommendations. Overuse of nitrogen fertilizers may contribute to groundwater pollution. Avoid getting fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways where it may wash into storm drains, streams and eventually into the Bay.
Various mushrooms and slime molds, like “dog-vomit” fungi and stinkhorn fungi, may be observed now growing in mulch. These are unsightly but harmless and can be broken up, turned under or removed. Mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from plant stems and shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched.
Toadstools and other mushrooms may emerge around root systems. They can be simply knocked over if unsightly.
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Mulch
Don’t lay down mulches containing large wood chips around your home. These may attract termites. Avoid the excessive use of hardwood mulches around acid-loving plants like azalea and blueberry. Hardwood mulches can contribute to manganese toxicity problems in these plants.
A 1-3 inch layer of mulch is sufficient for trees and shrubs. Keep the mulch away from trunks and crowns. Use thin layers of high quality bark mulches around your home.
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Compost
If your compost pile is overly wet and smelly, tear it apart and mix in some dry materials high in carbon, like shredded newspaper, straw or shredded leaves. Be sure to bury kitchen scraps deep inside your outdoor compost pile. Contrary to popular belief, it is not helpful to layer different ingredients when building a pile. Mixing together materials of different textures will promote faster decay. Many kinds of invertebrates live in a compost pile including manure worms, centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, and pseudoscorpions. They are part of the composting ecosystem and should be appreciated, not feared. Do not attempt to spray or otherwise kill these beneficial critters.
An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings can be mixed with leaves stockpiled over the winter to start up a compost pile. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process.
Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent waterlogging and nutrient leaching. Be sure to bury kitchen scraps deep inside your outdoor compost pile.
To avoid layering and compaction problems in your compost pile, mix in all new materials. This will keep your pile better aerated. Keep piles moistened during hot, dry weather. For rapid compost, mix equal quantities of grass clippings with the first fallen leaves. When you have a particularly serious insect or disease in your garden, do not compost the affected plants.
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Soil, Fertilizer, Mulch and Compost Tips - July 2008
Soil, Fertilizer, Mulch and Compost Tips - August 2008
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