| Soil, Fertilizer, Mulch & Compost
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JANUARY
- This is a good time to have your soil tested. Be prepared to raise soil pH with lime or lower soil pH with iron sulfate this spring according to the written recommendations you receive. For more information on soil testing see:
- Bare soil is prone to erosion and should be covered with mulch, cover crops (GE 006), groundcovers (HG 89), or turf.
- Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. This spring, spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure.
- If you want to grow vegetables, flowers or herbs next spring and your soil is especially poor, consider building a raised bed and fill it with a purchased mixture of topsoil and leaf compost.
- Fruit trees are fertilized in the spring. Landscape trees are traditionally fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall. Mature shade trees do not typically need to be fertilized at all. Keep dry fertilizers sealed up in your shed or basement to keep critters out.
- Do not attempt to melt ice this winter with granular garden fertilizers. They are very corrosive to concrete and metal, can burn plants and contribute to waterway pollution. Select alternative materials containing combinations of magnesium chloride or calcium magnesium acetate (FS 707). Other formulas containing sodium chloride, potassium chloride and calcium chloride are also suitable but can be corrosive and burn plants if not applied correctly. Avoid products containing urea. Keep all ice melting materials away from landscape plants. Sand is good to use to improve traction on slippery surfaces.
- Shredded leaves make excellent mulch and are easy to come by. Keep wood mulches away from the house. Mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched, except to keep mowers away from the trunk.
- Mulch perennial beds, trees and shrubs with fallen leaves. This will help to protect crowns and shallow root systems from severe cold weather.
- Keep sticks, roots and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients. Microbes continue to break down organic materials until temperatures drop below 40 degrees F. The composting process will slow down considerably when temperatures dip below 50 degrees F. Turning the pile every 2 weeks will hasten the breakdown process.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. To learn more about Backyard Composting, see HG 35.
- Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent waterlogging and nutrient leaching over the fall and winter. Kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile.
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FEBRUARY
- Be careful to keep ice melting products away from landscape plants. Avoid using granular fertilizers to melt ice. The fertilizer can cause browning of nearby landscape plants and is corrosive to concrete and metal. Also, the fertilizer salts run-off onto paved surfaces and are washed down storm drains and into waterways. Use coarse sand to improve traction on walkways and magnesium chloride products to melt ice. (FS 707)
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MARCH
- Now is a good time to have your soil tested (HG 110) if you have not had your lawn or garden soil tested for the past 3-4 years. It is also a good time to apply lime and organic matter to the soil surface where it is required. Don’t incorporate these materials until the soil is dry enough to work. Low fertility, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. Spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of compost.
- Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. Tilling wet soil can cause it to become cloddy and brick hard when it dries out. How do you know when your soil can be turned or tilled? One test is to form a clump of your soil into a ball. Bounce it up and down in your hand a few times. If it breaks apart easily it’s probably OK to work.
- If you want to grow vegetables, flowers or herbs this spring and your soil is especially poor, consider building a raised bed and filling it with a purchased mixture of topsoil and leaf compost.
- Many home gardeners over use fertilizers. This results in excessive nutrient runoff and water pollution. Over-fertilization especially with fertilizers high in nitrogen, can lead to overly-succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids. Most landscape plants get adequate nutrition from a healthy soil rich with organic matter.
- Whenever broadcasting granular fertilizers near sidewalks and drives always sweep them from paved surfaces to prevent them from washing into storm drains and waterways.
- Plants that typically benefit the most from fertilizer are those that are producing either flowers or fruits such as flowering annuals and vegetables. Apply a soluble fertilizer to the root system and or foliage to encourage quick establishment. Compost tea, fish emulsion, seaweed extracts, and soluble plant foods can all be used. Additional fertilizers are often unnecessary if well-managed beds are receiving yearly applications of a least one inch of compost.
- Mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from direct contact with shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit much from being mulched except to provide a protective barrier around their trunks from riding lawn mower damage.
- Your compost pile will begin to come back to life this month. When your pile dries out a bit, try to mix or turn the remaining ingredients to hasten decomposition. If your pile is overly wet and smelly, mix in some dry materials high in carbon, like shredded newspaper, straw or shredded leaves. Be sure to bury kitchen scraps deep inside your outdoor compost pile to prevent offensive odors that might also attract rodents.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly (3ft. x 3ft x 3ft.) It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also unnecessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent water logging and nutrient leaching. (HG 35)
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APRIL
Soil Improvement
- Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. This spring, spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure. If you want to grow vegetables, flowers or herbs this year and your soil is especially poor, consider building a raised bed and filling it with a purchased mixture of topsoil and leaf compost.
- Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil. Squeeze a handful of soil and bounce it up and down in your hand. If it breaks apart easily you can dig it; if it holds together it’s too wet to dig.
Fertilizing Plants
- Fertilize plants according to their specific needs based on soil test recommendations. Trees are typically fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall, not in the spring. Mature shade trees do not typically need to be fertilized because most will benefit from some additional nutrition when the lawn is fertilized. (HG 23)
- Avoid the temptation to fertilize ornamental garden plants that appear to be healthy and productive. Over-fertilization, especially with those high in nitrogen, can lead to overly succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids.
- It is not a good idea to apply fertilizer to cool season turf in the spring unless your turf is weak and thin or if you did not fertilize this past fall. When selecting a lawn fertilizer choose those containing a minimum of 40% water insoluble nitrogen. Fertilizing in the spring encourages rapid succulent growth that is more susceptible to attack by insects and disease. (HG 103)
- Fertilize spring flowering bulbs now while the foliage is green with a balanced fertilizer like 5-10-5, 10-6-4 or 10-10-10. This can be very helpful for young or weak bulbs. Fertilizing now will strengthen the bulb for best bloom next year.
- Rhododendrons and azaleas can be fertilized with a balanced fertilizer after the bloom period.
- Soluble starter fertilizers can be applied to the foliage or root-zone of spring crops to get them off to a fast start. Whenever applying fertilizer granules always sweep it off of driveways and sidewalks. Otherwise the fertilizer will wash into the storm sewers and eventually into the Bay.
Mulches
- Mulches should be applied only 2 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched except to keep riding lawn mowers from damaging the trunks. (FS 553) Also see Mulching for a Healthy Landscape.
Compost
- As the weather continues to get warmer the composting process will increase as well.
- This is a good time to turn compost piles, remove any large woody materials, and add a nitrogen source to accelerate the breakdown process. (HG 35)
- When making a compost pile, make it at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials. To accelerate the compost process shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete. Keep sticks, roots and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients.
- Finished compost is the very best “starter material” for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent water logging during wet periods, conserve moisture during dry periods, and prevent nutrient leaching. Kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile or in garden soil.
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MAY
Soil
- Earthworms are a sign of healthy soil. Contrary to popular belief, heavy rains don't drown earthworms (they have no lungs) or drive them out of the ground. They come to the surface during wet periods to mate more freely. They die because they dry out or are parasitized by insects and diseases. Soil insecticides will also drive them out of the soil. Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. Spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure.
- We are getting into the thunderstorm season. Bare soil is prone to erosion and should be covered with mulch, groundcovers, or turf. Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into soil too soon after rain. Turning over wet soil can cause long-term compaction damage to the structure of your soil. Test your soil for workability by forming a clump of soil into a ball. If it breaks apart easily it’s probably OK to work. If you want to grow vegetables, flowers, or herbs and your soil is especially poor, consider building a raised bed and filling it with a purchased mixture of topsoil and leaf or manure compost.
Fertilizer
- For optimum plant growth fertilize plants according to their specific needs based on soil test recommendations. Trees are typically fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall, not in the spring. Mature shade trees do not typically need to be fertilized at all. Trees get more than enough fertilizer when turf is fertilized in the fall.
- Bluegrass and fescue turf are fertilized in the fall as well. Spring fertilization of lawns is not necessary unless you failed to fertilize in the fall or your turf is weak, thin and pale. When selecting a lawn fertilizer choose those containing a minimum of 40% water insoluble nitrogen. June is the last time that you should fertilize your cool season lawn for the spring.
- To prevent nutrient pollution of groundwater and the Chesapeake Bay keep fertilizers off of hard surfaces like driveways and sidewalks. Be cautious when fertilizing areas of your yard that border these hard surfaces.
- Avoid the temptation to fertilize ornamental garden plants that appear to be healthy and productive. Over-fertilization, especially with those high in nitrogen, can lead to overly succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids.
Mulch
- Mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks.
- Very large mulch piles may undergo anaerobic digestion leading to the formation of compounds like ethanol and methanol that can damage plants. Break these piles up and allow them to dry out before using the mulch.
- Various slime molds, like “dog-vomit” fungi and stinkhorn fungi, may be observed now growing in mulch. Although not harmful to plants, they are unsightly and can be broken up, turned under, or removed.
Compost
- Compost contains major and minor nutrients important for plant growth and can be used in flower, herb and vegetable beds to substitute for commercial fertilizers.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. An even mixture of green (high nitrogen) and brown (high carbon) materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of “green” materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of “brown” materials. You can hasten the composting process by shredding materials, turning the pile, maintaining an even mixture of high nitrogen and high carbon materials, and by keeping the pile moist. If your pile is overly wet and smelly, mix in some dry materials high in carbon, like shredded newspaper, straw or shredded leaves.
- Keep sticks, roots and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients.
- It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent water logging during wet periods, conserve moisture during dry periods, and prevent nutrient leaching. Animal based kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile or in garden soil.
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JUNE
Soil
- Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil. Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. Spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure.
- Earthworms are a sign of healthy soil and are normally seen in the greatest numbers in fall and spring. Adding organic matter in the form of composted leaves, manure, grass clippings, etc. will improve soil structure and attract earthworms.
- Now is a good time to have your soil tested if you have not had your lawn or garden soil tested for the past 3-4 years.
Fertilizer
- Fertilize plants according to their specific needs based on soil test recommendations. Trees are typically fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall, not in the spring. Mature shade trees do not typically need to be fertilized at all. They usually get adequate nutrients when the lawn is fertilized. Bluegrass and fescue turf is fertilized in the fall as well.
- Avoid the temptation to fertilize ornamental garden plants that appear to be healthy and productive. Over-fertilization, especially with fertilizers high in nitrogen, can lead to overly-succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids.
- To prevent nutrient pollution of groundwater and the Chesapeake Bay keep fertilizers off of hard surfaces like driveways and sidewalks. Be cautious when fertilizing areas of your yard that border these hard surfaces.
Mulch
- Maryland summers typically include hot, dry weather. A good mulch covering will help plants survive the stress of summer and keep weeds in check. To be effective mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched except to keep lawnmowers and string trimmers at bay.
- Select pine bark or hardwood mulches, not wood chips, for use around your home to minimize the possibility of attracting termites. Avoid any hardwood mulches that contain chunks.
- Avoid buying or using mulches that have been stored in large, high piles and smell of alcohol. Very large mulch piles may undergo anaerobic digestion leading to the formation of compounds like ethanol and methanol that can damage plants. Break these piles up and allow them to dry out before using the mulch.
- Various slime molds, like “dog-vomit fungi and stinkhorn fungi, may also be observed now growing in mulch. These are harmless but are unsightly and can be broken up, turned under or removed.
Compost
- If your pile is overly wet and smelly, tear it apart and mix in some dry materials high in carbon, like shredded newspaper, straw or shredded leaves. Contrary to popular belief, it is not at all helpful to layer different ingredients when building a pile. Mixing together materials of different textures will promote faster decay. Many kinds of invertebrates live in a compost pile including manure worms, centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, and pseudoscorpions. They are part of the composting ecosystem and should be appreciated, not feared or destroyed. You may see large numbers of soldier fly larvae in your compost pile, especially if the pile is wet. These large, beige colored maggots are part of the compost food web. The adult flies are beneficial insects.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. (HG 35)
- Keep sticks, roots and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients. It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent water logging during wet periods, conserve moisture during dry periods, and prevent nutrient leaching. Kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile or in garden soil.
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JULY
Soil
- Bare soil is very prone to erosion from summer thunder storms and should be covered with mulch, groundcovers or turf. Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil. If you want to grow vegetables, flowers or herbs next spring and your soil is especially poor, consider building a raised bed and filling it with a purchased mixture of topsoil and leaf compost.
Fertilizer
- To prevent burning of the foliage sweep granular fertilizers off plant foliage. The “ready mix” liquid feed applicators are not as damaging since they are specially formulated to be applied directly to the foliage. To help prevent nutrient pollution of groundwater and the Chesapeake Bay sweep fertilizers off of hard surfaces like driveways and sidewalks. Avoid the temptation to over-fertilize ornamental garden plants that appear to be healthy and productive. Over-fertilization, especially with fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, can lead to overly succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids.
Mulch
- Various slime molds, like “dog-vomit” fungi and stinkhorn fungi, may be observed now growing in mulch. These are unsightly but harmless and can be broken up, turned under or removed. Read more...
- Mulches should be applied only 1-2 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched. Don’t lay down mulches containing wood chips (a non-bark mulch) around your home. These may attract termites. Bark mulches do not attract termites like wood chips.
- Avoid buying or using mulches that have been stored in large, high piles and smell of alcohol or methanol. The alcohol in the mulch will damage or possibly kill your plants. If you get a load of mulch delivered that has a strong alcohol smell, simply spread open the pile and let it air out for a few days to permit the alcohol to evaporate out.
Compost
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. Keep sticks, roots and woody stems out of your compost pile. They take too long to breakdown and make it difficult to turn the ingredients.
- It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent water logging during wet periods, conserve moisture during dry periods, and prevent nutrient leaching. Kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile or in garden soil.
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AUGUST
Fertilizer
- Do not fertilize shade trees, fruit trees or shrubs at this time. Fertilization in August is very likely to stimulate new growth at a time this fall when plants are beginning to enter dormancy and could result in excessive winter damage. Trees are typically fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall. Mature shade trees do not need to be fertilized every year. Bluegrass and fescue turf is also fertilized in the fall. Help protect the Bay by using fertilizers wisely. Fertilizers and lime should be applied in accordance with soil test recommendations. Overuse of nitrogen fertilizers may contribute to groundwater pollution. Avoid getting fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways where it may wash into storm drains, streams and eventually into the Bay
- Avoid the temptation to fertilize ornamental garden plants that appear to be healthy and productive. Over-fertilization, especially with fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, can lead to overly succulent, weak growth and encourage sucking insect pests like scales, aphids and adelgids.
Mulch
- Various mushrooms and slime molds, like “dog-vomit” fungi and stinkhorn fungi, may be observed now growing in mulch. These are unsightly but harmless. In addition to slime molds, toadstools and other mushrooms may emerge around root systems and from mulched beds. They are harmless to plants, if you don’t like them they can be simply knocked over.
- Don’t lay down mulches containing large wood chips around your home. These may attract termites. Hardwood or pine mulches that are predominantly bark are recommended.
Compost
- If your compost pile is overly wet and smelly, tear it apart and mix in some dry materials high in carbon, like shredded newspaper, straw or shredded leaves. Be sure to bury kitchen scraps deep inside your outdoor compost pile. Exclude animal fats and oil.
- Contrary to popular belief, it is not helpful to layer different ingredients when building a pile. Mixing together materials of different textures will promote faster decay.
- Many kinds of interesting invertebrates live in a compost pile including manure worms, centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, and pseudoscorpions. They are part of the composting ecosystem and should be appreciated, not feared. Do not attempt to spray or otherwise kill these beneficial critters.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. (HG 35)
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SEPTEMBER
Soil
- Adding organic matter in the form of composted leaves, composted manure, chopped up spent flowers and vegetable plants, grass clippings, etc. will improve soil structure, increase soil fertility and help you produce healthier plants.
- Now is a good time to have your soil tested, if you have not had your lawn or garden soil tested for the past 3-4 years. Many growing problems can be solved by correcting soil deficiencies. Refer to our website for information on soil testing.
- Winter cover crops can be planted now on bare garden soil. Sow the following species individually or in a combination: hairy vetch, winter rye, oats, winter wheat. Mix the seeds with soil and broadcast them by hand or use a hand held broadcasting seeder. Gently rake the seeds and walk on the bed to ensure good soil to seed contact. Your cover crop will protect your soil, conserve soil nutrients and add valuable organic matter and nutrients when tilled in next spring.
Fertilizer
- It is still too early to fertilize shade trees, fruit trees or shrubs. It could promote new growth at a time when perennial plants are beginning to enter dormancy and could result in increased winter damage. Trees are typically fertilized after they drop their leaves in the fall. Mature shade trees do not typically need to be fertilized at all. They also get some benefit from the fertilizer applied to the lawn.
- Bluegrass and fescue turf is fertilized in the fall. When fertilizing an established lawn, select lawn fertilizers that contain mostly nitrogen.
- To reduce nutrient pollution of groundwater and the Chesapeake Bay, keep fertilizers off hard surfaces like driveways and sidewalks. Use caution when fertilizing areas of your yard that border these hard surfaces.
Mulch
- Mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched, except to keep damaging lawn mowers away from the trunks.
Compost
- With fall comes the leaves that drop; they are a valuable resource to gardeners. Add them to your existing compost pile, or start a new one. Strive to incorporate a mixture of green, high nitrogen materials like grass clippings, spent plants and kitchen waste with dry materials high in carbon, like shredded newspaper, straw or shredded leaves. Water the pile if it becomes dry. Kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to “layer” different ingredients when building a pile But simply mixing together materials of different textures will promote faster decay. Many kinds of invertebrates live in a compost pile including manure worms, centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, and pseudoscorpions. They are part of the composting ecosystem and should be appreciated, not feared. Consider placing a cover over your compost bin this fall to keep excess water from slowing the breakdown process and prevent nutrient leaching.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. It is not necessary to buy a bioactivator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile.
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OCTOBER
Soil
- Bare soil is prone to erosion especially over the winter and should be covered with mulch, groundcovers or turf.
- Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil. Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. Spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure.
Fertilizer
- Keep leftover bags of fertilizer wrapped up securely in heavy plastic bags or solid containers. Rodents will often chews holes in fertilizer bags looking for food.
- Help protect the Bay by using fertilizers wisely. Fertilizers and lime should be applied in accordance with soil test recommendations. Overuse of nitrogen fertilizers may contribute to groundwater pollution. To prevent nutrient pollution of groundwater and the Chesapeake Bay keep fertilizers off hard surfaces like driveways and sidewalks. Be cautious when fertilizing areas of your yard that border these hard surfaces.
Mulch
- Mulches should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Established, mature shade trees do not benefit much from being mulched, except to keep mowers from bumping into their trunks. Mulch perennial beds, trees and shrubs with fallen leaves to help protect crowns and shallow root systems from severe cold weather. Don’t begin mulching your perennials until after the first hard freeze- around late-November. This will help to keep the soil cold during winter preventing freezing and thawing extremes that often heaves perennials out of the soil.
Compost
- Fall is a good time to start a compost pile by mixing together spent plants, kitchen scraps, fallen leaves, old mulch and grass clippings. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. Keep twigs, branches and other woody materials out of the pile. (video)
- Barrel and tumbler type composters work well in small spaces but need to be closely monitored to insure a proper mix of green and brown materials and adequate moisture levels. A disadvantage of barrels is that they are too small to heat up quickly. Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. (HG 35)
- Consider placing a tarp or lid over your compost pile to prevent waterlogging and nutrient leaching. Be sure to bury kitchen scraps deep inside your outdoor compost pile.
- An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials.
- When you have a particularly serious insect or disease problem in your garden, do not compost the affected plants.
- Here are some ideas for dealing with fallen tree leaves:
- Shred them with a mulching lawnmower and leave them in place (as long as they don’t completely cover your grass.)
- Shred them and add them to your compost pile.
- Cover your garden soil with shredded leaves.
- Mulch perennials, trees and shrubs with shredded leaves.
- Run them over with a mulching mower, bag them up and use them as a mulch next year.
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NOVEMBER
Soil
- Bare soil is prone to erosion and should be covered with mulch, groundcovers or turf. Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil. Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. Fall is an ideal time to add organic matter to your garden. Spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure and then cover with a layer of shredded or mulched leaves.
Fertilizer
- Keep leftover bags of fertilizer wrapped up securely in heavy plastic bags or solid containers. Rodents will often chew holes in fertilizer bags stored in sheds and garages.
- Help protect the Bay by using fertilizers wisely. Fertilizers and lime should be applied in accordance with soil test recommendations. Overuse of fertilizers may contribute to groundwater pollution. Avoid getting fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways where it may wash into storm drains, streams and eventually into the Bay.
Mulch
- Mulch should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched, except to keep lawn mowers away from tree trunks.
- Mulch perennial beds, trees and shrubs with fallen leaves to help protect crowns and shallow root systems from severe cold weather.
Compost
- This is a good time to start a compost pile by mixing together spent plants, kitchen scraps, fallen leaves, old mulch and grass clippings. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process. Keep twigs, branches and other woody materials out of the pile. An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials.
- Barrel and tumbler type composters work well in small spaces but need to be closely monitored to insure a proper mix of green and brown materials and adequate moisture levels. A disadvantage of barrels is that they are too small to heat up quickly. Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly.
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DECEMBER
Soil
- Bare soil, especially on slopes is prone to erosion and should be covered with mulch, groundcovers or turf.
- Avoid the temptation to turn over or dig into wet soil. This can cause long-term damage to the structure of your soil. To test if your soil is workable take a fist full and squeeze it, if it stays in a tight clump it is still too wet to be worked. If it breaks apart it is dry enough to be cultivated. Poor, compacted soils can be improved through the generous addition of organic matter. Spade or till in a 6-8 inch layer of leaf compost or well-rotted manure.
Fertilizer
- Do not attempt to melt ice with granular garden fertilizers. Not only do they pollute the watershed, they are corrosive to concrete and metal, and can burn plants.. Use sand to improve traction on walkways and magnesium chloride (not sodium chloride) products to melt ice. Store leftover bags of fertilizer in metal containers.
Mulch
- Mulch should be applied only 2-3 inches deep around ornamental plants and kept away from shrub and tree trunks. Deep mulch makes a favorable mulch for voles. If the mulch is next to woody plant trunks, the voles will feed on and damage bark and wood. Mature trees do not benefit from being mulched.
- Mulch perennial beds, trees and shrubs with fallen leaves to help protect crowns and shallow root systems from severe cold weather.
Compost
- In the winter, the composting process will slow down considerably as temperatures dip below 50°F. Turning the pile every 2 weeks will hasten the breakdown process. An even mixture of green, high nitrogen and brown, high carbon materials is necessary for rapid composting. Grass clippings and spent plants from the flower and vegetable garden provide a good source of high nitrogen, green materials for the compost pile. Fallen leaves and old straw mulch are good sources of high carbon, brown materials. Shred your materials with a lawnmower, string trimmer or machete to speed-up the breakdown process.
- Compost piles should be at least one cubic yard in volume to heat up properly. Contrary to common belief it is not necessary to buy a bio-activator to add to the compost pile. Finished compost is the very best starter material for a compost pile because it contains nitrogen and a huge number of microbes. It is also not necessary to add soil or lime to a compost pile. Consider placing a tarp or lid over your pile to prevent waterlogging and nutrient leaching over the fall and winter. Kitchen scraps thrown on top of compost piles may attract pest animals. It is best to bury these scraps in the middle of your compost pile.
- Redworms will not survive the winter outdoors and are of no benefit in the compost bin. Redworm bins can be set-up in your kitchen or basement over the winter to compost kitchen waste. (HG 40)
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