Lawns

Please Note: All recommendations are for central Maryland.  Time frames shift two weeks earlier in Southern Maryland and the Eastern Shore and two weeks later for Western Maryland.  Check publications for further information.

JANUARY

• Hand pull winter annual weeds now to keep them from going to seed this spring. Some common annual weeds include chickweed (photo), henbit (photo), hairy bittercress and dead nettle (photo).

• Try to avoid excessive walking on your grass when it is frozen this winter to avoid damaging the crowns of your grass plants.

• Leaves that fall on turfgrass can be chopped up with a mulching mower and allowed to breakdown over the fall and winter.

• This is a good time to have your soil tested. Do not attempt to fertilize your lawn when the ground is frozen. Keeping the soil pH in the 6.0 - 7.0 range is very important in maintaining healthy turf. Agricultural limestone can be applied to raise soil pH during the winter when the ground is not frozen or covered with snow. Pelletized lime is slightly more expensive than ground limestone but is easier to apply. For more information on soil testing see:
  • Leaflet 142 - Why Test Your Soil
  • HG 110 - Selecting and Using a Soil Testing Laboratory

   

Top of Page

FEBRUARY

• Late February through the end of March is the second best time (the optimum time is late August through mid October) to over-seed your lawn to make it thicker or to cover bare areas. The freezing and thawing of the soil this time of the year actually helps the seed to get good soil contact. Remove leaves and other debris and rake the soil to ensure good seed-soil contact. Snow cover over the seed will not harm it. To over seed an existing tall fescue lawn, broadcast tall fescue seed at a rate of 3-4 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. For bluegrass and fine leaved fescue lawns use half this seeding rate. When seeding completely barren areas, sow tall fescue seed at about 6-8 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. Read HG 102 Lawn Establishment, Renovation and Overseeding for more information.

• Be careful to keep ice-melting products off turf to avoid killing your lawn.

• Avoid walking on your lawn when it is frozen. Although it will not kill the grass, when frozen the grass blades will break leaving unsightly dead foot prints on the lawn.

Top of Page

MARCH

• Now is considered the second best time (best is late August through October) to seed your lawn for repairs and to make it thicker or cover bare areas. Follow the label for seeding rates. See HG 102 Lawn Establishment, Renovation, and Overseeding 

• It is not a good idea to apply fertilizer to cool season turf in the spring unless your turf is weak and thin or if you did not fertilize this past fall. Fertilizing in the spring encourages rapid succulent growth that is more susceptible to attack by insects and disease.

• This is a good time to have your soil tested. Keeping the soil pH in the 6.0 - 7.0 range is very important in maintaining healthy turf. A soil test will determine its pH and the amount of lime needed. Agricultural limestone (ground or dolomitic) can be applied to raise soil pH. Pelletized lime is slightly more expensive than ground limestone but is easier to apply. Not sure how to take a soil sample? Watch our video on collecting a soil sample!

• If you had a crabgrass (photo) problem last year consider applying a pre-emergent herbicide later this month. If you are also re-seeding, be sure to select an herbicide labeled for use on new lawns, it can be found under the trade name Siduron or the chemical name, tupersan. Best control of crabgrass is achieved by splitting this herbicide treatment into two applications. Apply the first application of pre-emergent crabgrass killer in mid-March in Southern Maryland and on the Eastern Shore, in late March for Central Maryland and in early April in Western Maryland. Apply the second half in early May for Southern Maryland, mid-May for central Maryland and late May for western Maryland. The best prevention for crabgrass and other weeds is to improve the lawn and keep it mowed regularly at the proper height (2-3 inches for cool season grasses).

• Chickweed (photo), dead nettle (photo), henbit (photo) and other broadleaf winter annual weeds are starting to grow again at this time. They actually germinated last fall and were dormant throughout the winter. They can be treated with a labeled broadleaf weed herbicide when they are more actively growing later this month or throughout April. Small infestations can be pulled by hand. However, fall herbicide applications when these weeds are germinating often produce better control.

• Lawn areas plagued by compacted soil should not be aerated during wet spring conditions. Digging or disturbing the soil when it is wet actually results in more compaction. Wait until the ground dries out.

• This is the time to sharpen your lawn mower blades and service your mower. Dull blades tear turfgrass and can lead to damage and disease problems. Remember to sharpen your mower blade a few times throughout the mowing season.
  

Top of Page

APRIL

• Lawn over seeding can still be done in April. Good seed to soil contact is important if the seed is to germinate and survive. Remove leaves and other debris and rake the soil. The best lawn grasses to use are varieties of turf-type tall fescue. Broadcast tall fescue seed at a rate of 3-4 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. for over seeding. Double the seeding rate (6 – 8 lbs) if seeding over large barren areas. Cover the area lightly with straw and water daily until germination. Once the grass has germinated you can water less frequently, hopefully there will be adequate rain this spring to maintain the young grass. 

• Later this month marks the beginning of the mowing season. The height and how frequently you mow your lawn is very important. Cool season grasses such as tall fescue, creeping fescue, and bluegrass should be maintained at 3.0 inches. Try not to remove more than one third of the leaf surface at any one time, repeated mowing that removes this much of the blade will ruin the lawn. For example, if the desired mowing height is 3 inches, do not allow the turf to grow higher than 4 inches before mowing. White or tan colored grass blade tips are an indication that the blade is dull. Keep your blade sharp and leave the grass clippings where they lay. “Grasscycling” eliminates bagging labor and adds organic matter and nitrogen to your soil, allowing you to apply 25% less nitrogen fertilizer. Contrary to what some gardeners think it does not contribute to thatch build-up. (TT 63) 

• It is not a good idea to apply fertilizer to cool season turf in the spring unless your turf is weak and thin or if you did not fertilize this past fall. (FS 702) Fertilizing in the spring encourages rapid succulent growth that is more susceptible to attack by insects and disease in the summer months. Keeping the soil pH in the 6.0 - 7.0 range is very important in maintaining healthy turf. Although the tall fescues are a little more forgiving of an acidic soil, they will still grow much better at a higher pH. Agricultural limestone applied according to soil test results will raise soil pH. Pelletized lime is slightly more expensive than ground limestone but is much easier to apply.

• If you had a major crabgrass problem last year and you did not apply crabgrass control last month, control with a pre-emergent herbicide may still be successful depending on the weather. Generally the latest that the first application of a crab grass pre-emergent can be applied is the first week of April for central Maryland. It’s earlier on the eastern shore and later in western Maryland. Divide the recommended amount by two and apply half now, the other half in mid-May. Tupersan or Siduron are the only pre-emergents that can be used on newly seeded lawns. If you did not have a crabgrass problem last year there is no need to use a crabgrass herbicide this year. Small patches of crabgrass can be controlled during the growing season by hand pulling or applying a post-emergent herbicide as a spot treatment. Mowing the lawn at the proper height is very important in reducing the invasion of weeds. (TT 43)

• This month broadleaf weeds resume growth. (TT 49) If you have only a few weeds, simply dig them out. For more extensive problems apply a labeled broadleaf herbicide to spot treat broadleaf weeds. To reduce pesticide usage, spot treatments with a liquid herbicide are more effective and less environmentally harmful than broadcast dry herbicide.

• Pick up and discard dog droppings from turf areas. The droppings will burn grass plants if left for an extended period of time.

Top of Page

MAY

• The best time to re-seed your lawn is late August through October. It’s getting too late to successfully sow grass seed and have it survive the coming hot summer. However, you might be able to repair small bare spots now IF you are diligent about watering the young grass through the early summer until well established. Remove dead grass; loosen up the top 1 -2 inches of soil. Sprinkle the seed over the area, being careful not to seed too heavily. It is not necessary to cover the seed with soil. Tamp the area down with the back of a steel rake. A light covering of straw or other new grass seed mulching materials should be applied. Keep these areas moist at all times until the seed germinates; this may mean twice a day watering. Once the grass is fully germinated reduce the frequency of the watering but do it more deeply. (TT 63)

• Always mow cool season grasses, like tall fescue and bluegrass, at a height of 3 inches. Mowing the lawn too close weakens the grass and permits many weeds to invade your lawn. Mow zoysia grass and Bermuda grass to a height of 2 -3 inches and fertilize them in July, not in the fall. During periods of rapid growth in the spring you may need to mow your lawn twice each week. Try not to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at each mowing.

• Dry white or tan colored grass blade tips are an indication that the mower blade is dull. Dull mower blades tear turf grass and can lead to disease problems. Keep your blade sharp and leave the grass clippings where they lay. Grasscycling eliminates bagging labor and costs, adds organic matter and nitrogen to your soil and does not contribute to thatch build-up.

• It is not a good idea to fertilize cool season turf in the spring unless your turf is weak and thin or if you did not fertilize this past fall. Apply no more than a half pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet in the spring. Fertilizing in the spring encourages rapid succulent growth that is more susceptible to attack by insects and disease. This is a good time to have your soil tested. (video and more) Keeping the soil pH in the 5.8 - 7.0 range is very important in maintaining healthy turf. Tall fescue can tolerate a pH of 5.5. Agricultural limestone can be applied to raise soil pH. Pelletized lime is slightly more expensive than ground limestone but is much easier to apply. Amount and application rate of lime will be indicated by the soil test results.

• Ground ivy, clover, dandelion and other broadleaf weeds are rapidly growing at this time. They can be controlled now with an application of a liquid broadleaf herbicide. Reduce pesticide use. If the entire lawn is not invaded by weeds, buy a ready-to-use product and spray only the areas that have weeds. However, fall herbicide applications often produce better control, especially for difficult to control weeds like clover and ground ivy. Read herbicide labels carefully. Make sure the product is labeled to control target weeds. Apply according to rates listed on label.

• Small patches of crabgrass can be controlled during the growing season by hand pulling it out by hand or applying a post-emergent herbicide as a spot treatment. Mow high and encourage thick turf.

• Pick up and discard dog droppings from turf areas. The droppings will burn grass plants if left for an extended period of time. Decaying pet waste also contributes to polluting our lakes, streams and the Chesapeake Bay.

• Mushrooms may be an eyesore but do not damage the lawn (photo). You may also see slime molds develop on lawns and mulches. These fungi are feeding on decaying organic matter in the soil, dead tree roots, etc. The fungi can be knocked or kicked apart to help dry them out. They will disappear with a return to dry conditions.

Top of Page

JUNE

• Prepare your lawn for the summer heat to come. Maintaining proper mower height is critical for a successful lawn and its survival through summer. Try not to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at each mowing. This can be difficult during rainy weather. After a wet period your grass may be excessively tall. In this case, mow your turf higher than normal, then return several days later and mow at the proper height (3 inches). An occasional mowing of tall grass is unavoidable, but routine close mowing will harm your lawn and invite weeds to germinate.

• Cut your cool season turf to a height of 3-4 inches. Mow zoysia grass and Bermuda grass to a height of 3 inches. This is a height recommendation change for residential zoysia and Bermuda grass lawns. The taller height suppresses weed growth better than the shorter height that was recommended in the past.

• Grasscycling (leaving grass clippings on your lawn), eliminates bagging labor, reduces costs, adds organic matter and nitrogen to your soil, and does not contribute to thatch build-up. Grasscycling provides about 25% of the nitrogen your lawn needs for the year.

• Dull mower blades tear turfgrass and can lead to disease problems. White colored grass blade tips are an indication that the blade is dull. Sharpen your mower blades frequently, and always inspect the blade’s edge after striking stones and branches hidden in the lawn.

• Remember to pick up and discard dog droppings from turf areas. The droppings will burn grass plants if left for an extended period of time.

• June is a good time to fertilize zoysiagrass; apply 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. In either case, use a “low phosphorous” or “no phosphorous” fertilizer if your soil has an adequate phosphorous level. Excessive phosphorus can find its way into the watershed and eventually into the Chesapeake Bay. Established, cool season turf should only be fertilized in the fall.

• If needed, lime can be broadcast now according to soil test recommendations.

• Crabgrass has germinated. It is now too late to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. Small patches of crabgrass can be controlled during the growing season by pulling it out by hand or applying a post-emergent herbicide as a spot treatment.

• Many types of summer annual and perennial weed seeds like Indian strawberry (photo), clover (photo), dandelion (photo), wild onion, and plantain (photo) are rapidly growing at this time. They can be controlled now with spot treatments of a liquid broadleaf herbicide. Spot treating with a ready-to-use (RTU) liquid herbicide is more effective and less environmentally harmful than spraying the entire lawn when not needed. Herbicides can damage or kill landscape plants. Do not spray herbicides around ponds (fish are very sensitive to herbicides) or on breezy days and read and closely follow all label instructions. Early fall herbicide applications often produce better control, especially for difficult to control weeds like wild garlic, Canada thistle, and creeping Charlie. (HG 101)

• Moss growing in a lawn is usually associated with low sunlight, compacted soils and low soil pH. To return the area to turf, rake or dig out the moss, incorporate fertilizer and lime according to soil test recommendations and re-seed with tall fescue seed. (HG 100) It can often be difficult to establish grass in mossy areas. If turf will not grow, consider re-planting the area with an appropriate groundcover that will tolerate moist, low-light conditions. Some good groundcover choices for shady and damp places are Epimedium, Pachysandra and Periwinkle. In some cases, such as rain gardens that collect water from gutters, a thick healthy growth of moss can be very attractive and serve a good purpose as well.

• Grub control products, acelepryn and imidicloprid, are best applied in July so as to avoid killing beneficial wasps that are active in June feeding on grubs. Follow all label instructions. These chemicals should only be used if you have a minimum average of 6-8 white grubs per square foot of soil and the grubs are killing your turf. (read more...)
  

• Moles feed on worms and grubs, they do not feed on plant roots but their raised surface tunnels can be a real nuisance in the lawn. Special traps for moles are the most effective method of control. Applying grub control products on your lawn usually does not control moles as they also feed on earthworms. (read more...)

• June is the beginning of the lawn disease season. Lawn diseases such as dollar spot, brown patch and red thread may be observed on turf at this time. No fungicide sprays are recommended. The management of these diseases is prevention/reduction by correcting cultural practices. Close mowing and excessive fertilization may pre-dispose turf to some leaf spot diseases. Spring fertilization as opposed to fall fertilization can also promote lawn diseases. Properly maintained tall fescue has disease resistance to most leaf spot diseases. (TT 38)

Top of Page

JULY

• Typically, July is a very hot month and proper mowing of your lawn is critical to help it survive the summer. “Mow ‘em high and let ‘em lie” should be your slogan. Cut your cool-season turf (fescues and bluegrass) to a height of 3-4 inches and leave the clippings on the lawn where they will decompose naturally. Mow warm season grasses, like zoysia and Bermuda, to a height of 3 inches.

• Grasscycling, leaving the clippings lie, does not lead to thatch build-up problems. It actually helps restore nutrients to the lawn. Also, remember to keep your lawn mower blade properly sharpened. Dull blades tear turfgrass and can lead to disease problems. Sharpen it a few times during the summer.

• Now is the time to fertilize Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. Apply according to the instructions on the bag. Do not fertilize cool-season grasses (i.e. fescues and bluegrass) until fall because fertilizer applications during the summer months may cause undue stress to the grass and encourage weed growth.

• Crabgrass (photo) is growing very rapidly. While it is still young, it can be controlled with a post-emergent herbicide, or hand dug from the lawn. Wild strawberry, violets, clover (photo), dandelion, wild onion, plantain, and other common broadleaf weeds can be controlled now with spot treatments of a liquid broadleaf herbicide. Herbicides can damage or kill non-target plants and animals if used incorrectly. Do not spray herbicides around ponds or on breezy days and read and closely follow all label instructions. Broadleaf herbicides should not be applied during hot weather. It is best to wait until temperatures cool down. Weeds are more susceptible to herbicides when they are growing vigorously.

• As the summer progresses and temperatures rise and rainfall decreases, cool season lawns usually become dormant. This year they have started much earlier than normal because of June’s unusually hot, dry weather. Dormancy is a normal plant response causing them to stop growing and turn brown. They will not die and no watering is recommended but newly seeded or newly sodded areas will need watering.

• Cicada killer wasps (photo) are becoming active. They are very large, 2 inches long, and resemble yellow jackets in coloration. Fortunately, these wasps are not aggressive and will not sting unless handled. These harmless wasps prey on cicadas and dig their nests in soil. (photo) They are solitary insects but may congregate in large numbers. They prefer sandy soils in full sun to dig their nests. No controls are recommended.

• Japanese beetle adults (photo) are actively flying now, mating and laying eggs. The immature stage called grubs live in the soil and feed on turfgrass roots. Bluegrass is the favored host plant. High numbers of Japanese beetle grubs will cause considerable damage to the lawn. The adult beetles can be very destructive to roses, flowers, grapes and vegetables. Japanese beetles are most numerous in new housing developments this is because of the freshly tilled soil, open sunny areas and few predators present. For more information, read HG 78, The Japanese Beetle.

• Brown patch is a common fungal disease of fescue lawns that begins to appear in late June and early July as thin, brown areas. This disease is typically worse on over- fertilized lawns. No chemical controls are recommended; grasses will green up and recover in the fall. (read more...)

• Summer patch and dollar spot may be seen now on bluegrass. No fungicide sprays are recommended for typical home lawn situations.

Top of Page

AUGUST

• In dry periods grasses go dormant but recover when rain returns. Newly seeded or sodded lawns may actually be dead. This month, mid-August through mid-October is the best time to start new lawns and renovate or overseed existing lawns. We recommend a turf-type tall fescue cultivar at a rate of 4 lbs. of seed per 1,000 sq. ft. of area for overseeding, or 8 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for new lawns. If your lawn area contains more than 50% weeds, consider a total lawn renovation. Newly seeded turf must be watered regularly. See HG 102, Lawn Establishment, Renovation, and Overseeding.

• Mow ‘em high and let ‘em lie. Cut your cool-season turf (fescues and bluegrass) to a height of 3 - 4 inches and leave the clippings on the lawn where they will decompose naturally. Mow home lawns with zoysia grass and Bermuda grass to a height of 3 inches. Grass cycling does not lead to thatch build-up problems. Mowing high is the best defense to help lawns survive drought and prevent the invasion of broadleaf weeds. Skip mowing your lawn during extreme dry and hot weather. Mowing wounds grass blades creating more surface area for plant moisture to escape.

• Always keep your lawn mower blade sharp. Dull blades tear turf grass and can lead to disease problems.

• Fertilize Bermuda grass and zoysia grass no later than mid-August with one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. This is equivalent to 10 lbs. of a 10-6-4 fertilizer. Do not fertilize cool-season grasses until September because fertilizer applications during the summer months may cause undue stress.

• Crabgrass is forming seed heads at this time. You can spot treat small patches of crabgrass now but control severe crabgrass problems next spring through the use of pre-emergent herbicides. Over-seeding your lawn this fall will thicken the turf will also help combat crabgrass next year.

• Broadleaf weeds, like clover (photo), ground ivy (photo) and wild strawberry (photo), are usually growing vigorously at this time in the summer. Weeds need to be actively growing for the herbicide to be most effective. Wait until there is rain to stimulate the weeds growth before applying an herbicide. Remember that lawn herbicides can damage or kill non-target plants and animals if used incorrectly.

• Brown patch (photo) is a common fungal disease of tall fescue lawns that appears as thin, brown areas. It is the only common fungal disease of tall fescue. Grasses will green up and recover in the fall. No chemical controls are recommended. This disease is typically worse on over-fertilized and irrigated lawns.

• Summer patch and dollar spot may be seen now on some irrigated bluegrass lawns. No fungicide sprays are recommended once the disease has already started. Control thatch and soil compaction, maintain fertility by applying fertilizer in the fall and overseed with resistant cultivars.

Top of Page

SEPTEMBER

• The summer of 2011 was definitely one that hit all cool season lawns in our region very hard. The dormancy (browning) of cool season grasses is a natural response that helps turfgrass survive drought and heat. Grasses that go dormant will usually green-up and grow vigorously again in the fall. However, because of the extreme heat, there may be areas of the lawn that actually did die, such as on very hard pan clay soils or very sandy dry soils and on south facing slopes. Most other dormant areas of lawns have recovered nicely thanks to the return of rain.

• If needed, this is the recommended time to carry out a total lawn renovation. Total renovation is best if your lawn is always failing due to poor soil, has over 50% weeds or is mostly dead. For the best results, work in ample amounts of organic matter. Use leaf gro, compro, thoroughly composted horse or cow manure or peat moss.

• Whether renovating or just over-seeding, the seed bed should be raked vigorously with a metal rake to loosen the soil and promote good seed to soil contact. If your entire lawn is compacted, machine aerating will help improve seeding, water and fertilizer penetration. After seeding, the area should be lightly covered with straw and watered twice each day, even after the grass emerges. The recommended grass for this region is the turf-type tall fescue varieties. If starting from scratch the lawn should be seeded at 8-10 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. If overseeding the seeding rate is half this amount. Fescue seed should germinate in about a week. If broadleaf weeds are a problem, you can apply broadleaf weed killers after newly seeded grass has been mowed at least 3 times or according to label directions. Read HG 102 for more information.

• Crabgrass grew very well with all the heat of this past summer. Severe crabgrass problems should be dealt with next spring through the application of pre-emergent herbicides. Improving the turf’s thickness will also help combat crabgrass and other types of weeds.

• You can control broad leaf weeds like ground ivy, plantain, dandelion and clover by using a broadleaf herbicide containing 2,4-D and triclopyr. For best results be sure moisture levels are sufficient before applying herbicides. Winter annual weeds like henbit and chickweed can be controlled now using a preemergent herbicide, labeled for broadleaf weeds, around the 3rd week in September. But remember, you cannot apply a preemergent and sow grass seed at the same time, except for Tupersan (Sideron) which is used to control annual weeds like crabgrass. This is the ideal time to control wild bermudagrass, nimblewill, and other narrow leaf, perennial weeds. Control perennial weeds in your lawn with spot treatments of glyphosate herbicide at least a week prior to renovation. Use this product with care, it will kill any part of the lawn that it is sprayed upon. Overseed with turf type tall fescue as recommended.

• This is a good time to have your soil tested. Read HG 110 and watch our new video on how to take a soil test.

• Cool season grasses, bluegrass and fescue should be fertilized in September, and October with 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. The amount of lime to apply will be indicated by soil test results. If it is necessary to apply lime, spread it after all fertilizer has been applied and before the ground freezes. Refer to our website for information on getting your soil tested.

• Cicada killer wasps are very active now. They are large, 2 inches long, and resemble yellow jackets in coloration. Although they are capable of stinging, they will not bother you unless you actually grab one in your hand. These wasps prey on cicadas which they capture, paralyze with their sting, and carry back to their in-ground nests for their young to eat. They are solitary insects but may congregate in large numbers in your yard. Typically no control measures are recommended.

Top of Page

OCTOBER

• Leave your rake in the shed this fall! Leaves that fall onto the lawn can be shredded with a lawnmower and left to decompose naturally. Run over the accumulated leaves several times with the mower to break them into small pieces. The decomposing leaves will release nutrients and add organic matter to the soil; they will not hurt the turf. However, deep piles of leaves need to be removed or turf crowns may smother and die.

• Broadleaf weeds are growing vigorously with a return to cooler, wetter weather and can be effectively controlled with spot applications of labeled herbicides. Don’t apply herbicides to areas that you will be re-seeding. The herbicide will be harmful to the new seedling grass. If you need to treat the entire lawn with an herbicide, wait about 3 weeks before seeding.

• Crabgrass has already formed seed heads for next year. After a frost it will die and the old dead plants can be removed by hand raking. If crabgrass was a severe problem this summer, apply a crabgrass preemergent next spring. Over-seeding your lawn to thicken the turf will also help combat crabgrass. Mow fescue lawns at the recommended height (3 inches), taller grass shades out crabgrass.

• Mid October is the ‘official’ recommended cut-off for seeding a lawn. However, if the weather does not become too cold you can sometimes sow tall fescues up to the end of this month and still have them survive the winter. The success of the seedlings depends entirely on how late that cold winter weather arrives this year. For best results, use a turf-type tall fescue cultivar at a rate of 4 lbs. of seed per 1,000 sq. ft. of area for overseeding, or 8 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for new lawns. Mow the turf very low and rake out dead turf before reseeding. Keep the reseeded areas well-watered until seedlings emerge. If your lawn area contains more than 50% weeds, consider a total lawn renovation.

• Recommended cool season grasses, like tall fescue, should be fertilized in September and October 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each month. Apply no more than 2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. in total. If it is necessary to apply lime, spread it after all fertilizer has been applied and before the ground freezes. A soil test will tell you the amount of lime required.

Top of Page

NOVEMBER

• Save yourself a lot of raking, blowing and picking up leaves this fall. Leaves are a very valuable source of organic matter to improve the soil in a lawn and garden. Leaves that fall onto the lawn can be shredded with a lawnmower and left to decompose naturally on the lawn. These mulched leaves can be left in place if they don’t exceed 1 inch in depth. However, deep piles of leaves that are not removed for several days may smother and kill the lawn. If you don’t want to mulch them in place on your lawn use a grass catcher to collect leaves and then use them in the compost pile or to winter-mulch beds.

• Typically, November is too late to broadcast lawn seed and expect it to survive the winter. Consider waiting until early spring.

• This is still a good time to control wild garlic, clover, ground ivy, chickweed, and other difficult weeds with an herbicide if daytime temperatures remain in the sixties. Do not spray herbicides around ponds or on breezy days. Always read and closely follow all label instructions.

• If you had a crabgrass problem consider treating your lawn next spring with a pre-emergent herbicide. However, improving the thickness of the lawn in fall with over-seeding and proper fertilization, and maintaining proper mower height, will greatly reduce crabgrass invading the lawn next summer.

DECEMBER

• This is a good time to have your soil tested. It is too late to broadcast lawn seed and fertilizer. Lime can still be applied according to soil test recommendations.

• Keep fallen leaves off turf areas. Mow leaves that fall on turf areas with a mulching mower. If you do not own a mulching mower you can still ‘mulch’ the leaves on a lawn by mowing over the lawn several times. These mulched leaves can be left in place if they don’t exceed 1 inch in depth. Otherwise, use a grass catcher to collect leaves and then use them in the compost pile or to winter-mulch beds. Chopped leaves make an excellent mulch and material for compost.

• Avoid excessive walking on your grass when it is frozen this winter. Although not a serious problem it will result in dead footsteps from the broken frozen grass blades.
  
  

Return to Homepage